Anthurium

Anthurium spp., Flamingo Flower, Laceleaf, Tailflower

Anthuriums are a large genus of tropical plants native to the Americas, recognizable by their glossy, heart-shaped, dark green leaves and their famous waxy, brightly colored "flowers." The colorful part is actually a modified leaf called a spathe, which surrounds a central spike called a spadix (the true flowers). Anthuriums are popular for their long-lasting blooms in colors like red, pink, white, and purple. Popular cultivated varieties include Anthurium andraeanum (standard bloomer), Anthurium crystallinum (velvet-leafed), and Anthurium clarinervium.

Care Guide

LIGHT

  • Prefers bright, indirect light to encourage continuous blooming.
  • East or North-facing windows are ideal.
  • Insufficient light will result in few or no flowers.
  • Avoid direct, harsh sunlight, which can burn the leaves and spathes.

WATER

  • Prefers consistent, moderate moisture. Water when the top two inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
  • Do not allow the plant to completely dry out, and never allow it to sit in standing water.
  • Use lukewarm water to avoid shocking the roots.
  • Higher humidity will reduce the risk of crispy leaf edges.

SOIL

  • Needs an airy, well-draining, and coarse potting mix.
  • A mix often used for orchids, such as a blend of orchid bark, coco coir, perlite, and a small amount of potting soil, is ideal.
  • The roots are thick and need excellent aeration.

GROWTH HABIT

  • Ideal conditions: High humidity (60% or more), warm temperatures (70-85F), and bright, indirect light.
  • Growth rate & size: Growth rate is moderate. Most flowering varieties remain compact (1-2 feet tall), forming a clumping growth habit.

PROPAGATING

  • Most commonly propagated by division of the main clump when repotting.
  • Separate plant sections that have a few leaves and their own established root systems.
  • Can also be propagated by stem cuttings or by removing and rooting basal offsets.

PRUNING

  • Prune regularly by removing faded or brown spathes (the "flowers") at the base of their stalk.
  • Remove yellowed, damaged, or fully spent leaves near the soil line using a clean, sharp tool.

REPOTTING

  • Repot when the plant is root-bound, usually every 2-3 years.
  • Repot in the spring or early summer.
  • When repotting, plant the base high, keeping the top roots slightly exposed, as they tend to grow epiphytically.

FERTILIZING

  • Feed regularly during the spring and summer growing season (every 4-6 weeks).
  • Use a liquid fertilizer high in phosphorus (the middle number) to encourage blooming, applied at half strength.
  • Reduce or stop fertilizing in the fall and winter.

FLOWERING

  • Produces its characteristic brightly colored spathe and spadix year-round under ideal conditions.
  • Each spathe can last for several weeks or even months.
  • Consistent warmth, light, and humidity are the primary factors for continuous flowering.

TOXICITY

  • Toxic to humans and pets. Contains insoluble calcium oxalates, which can cause severe oral irritation, swelling, and vomiting if ingested.

PRO TIPS

  • To maintain a high-quality appearance, dust the glossy leaves frequently.
  • Do not let the plant dry out completely; they are tropical aroids, not drought-tolerant.
  • Increase humidity immediately if the leaf tips or edges start turning brown or crispy.

Variants in Care

Most varieties of this plant follow the standard care above, but some require adjustments.

Flowering Anthuriums

Examples: Anthurium andraeanum (standard red/pink/white bloomers), Anthurium scherzerianum (pig-tail)

  • Require the highest light levels and consistent warmth to maintain year-round blooming.
  • Benefit most from phosphorus-rich fertilizer during the growing months.
  • Need extremely high humidity to prevent the spathes from turning green or fading too quickly.

Velvet Leaf/Climbing Anthuriums

Examples: Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium clarinervium (foliage types)

  • These types are prized for their large, velvety leaves with distinct veining, not their blooms.
  • Prefer shadier conditions than blooming types to prevent scorching of the delicate, matte leaves.
  • Need a coarser, chunkier potting mix (more bark) and support (moss pole) as many are hemiepiphytic climbers.

Bird's Nest/Paddle-Leaf Anthuriums

Examples: Anthurium hookeri

  • Grows in a tight, upright rosette that catches debris in nature.
  • Care must be taken to avoid pouring water directly into the center of the rosette to prevent crown rot.
  • Typically more tolerant of lower light than the brightly flowering types.

Bloom Information

Post-Bloom Care and Pruning

Maintaining the plant after the flowers fade is essential for ensuring a continuous cycle of new spathes (the colorful modified leaves).

  • When the colorful spathe begins to turn green or brown and the spadix (the center spike) withers, cut the flower stem as close to the base as possible.
  • Removing old flowers prevents the plant from attempting to produce seeds, which consumes significant energy.
  • Use a clean, sharp blade to make the cut to avoid tearing the stem tissue, which is prone to rot.

Primary Reblooming Triggers

High Intensity Indirect Light

  • Light is the most critical factor for reblooming an Anthurium; while they can survive in low light, they will only produce green leaves without flowers.
  • Place the plant in the brightest possible spot where it will not receive direct, scorching sun.
  • If the plant is healthy but not blooming, providing 10–12 hours of bright, filtered light via a grow light can often trigger new flower production.

Consistent Warmth and Humidity

  • Anthuriums are tropical plants that require temperatures consistently above 65°F to thrive and bloom.
  • High humidity (above 50%) is necessary for the flowers to emerge and unfurl properly; in dry air, new flower buds may become stuck or deformed.

Variants in Care: Blooming Specifics

Anthurium andreanum (Tailflower)

  • This is the most common flowering variant, known for its heart-shaped, waxy spathes in red, pink, or white.
  • It is a nearly continuous bloomer if light levels are kept high and consistent year-round.

Anthurium scherzerianum (Pig-tail Anthurium)

  • This variant is distinguished by its curly, spiral-shaped spadix and more matte-textured spathes.
  • It often requires a slightly cooler rest period (around 60°F) in the winter to trigger a heavy flush of blooms in the spring.

Nutritional and Maintenance Needs

  • Use a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content (the middle number) to encourage flower development rather than just leaf growth.
  • Apply fertilizer at one-quarter strength every time you water during the spring and summer, then reduce frequency in the winter.
  • Water only when the top inch of the potting mix is dry. Anthuriums are semi-epiphytic and need a very airy, well-draining mix (such as a blend of orchid bark, perlite, and peat) to prevent root rot.
  • Wipe the waxy leaves and spathes with a damp cloth to remove dust, which allows the plant to photosynthesize more efficiently and maintain its vibrant color.

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